Goat Care
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Goats are browsers not grazers, meaning they prefer to forage from low hanging branches, shrubs, bushes, and weeds in preference to grass.
We feed our goats a quality hay based diet, oaten hay is a great choice. Goats can be fussy, and it helps to keep hay off the ground. You can feed it to them once a day or keep a steady supply of it in a hay rack or a small-holed hay net.
We feed our adult does every second day with 1 cup of Thomson & Redwood goat muesli OR goat pellets, and two cups of oaten chaff. (Half that much is enough for each kid)
Wethers have slightly different dietary requirements to does, and do not need quite the same amount of goodies. If they get too much they can develop complications like urinary calculi. A balanced diet of hay, chaff and pellets will be plenty sufficient.
Be careful not to over feed goat muesli/pellets or leave it where they might break in and help themselves to it as to much can cause serious health problems.
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Treats are okay in moderation. Our goats love Weetbix, plain crackers, or a weekly treat of sunflower seeds.
Leftover fruit and vegetables are great but still should only be fed occasionally. Please consult a reliable source before introducing new treats into their diet. The internet will provide you with lots of do’s and dont’s if you’re unsure.
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We like to keep an Olssons goat mineral lick block out for our goats to access freely, if they are lacking in any essential minerals they will help themselves.
Other supplements include Anitone and Livamol.
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Kids need vaccinations at 4 weeks and then a booster at 8 weeks. They are then vaccinated every 6 months after that, for their adult life.
Our goats are vaccinated with Glanvac 3 in 1.
Vaccinating pregnant does a month before kidding also protects the unborn kids till their first vaccination.
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It is important to regularly check your goats hooves to see if they need trimming. Usually every 6-8 weeks they will need a trim, but it can vary depending on the season, and the terrain in their yard (different types of ground will wear their hooves down at different rates). You will need a pair of trimming shears to do this. There are many instructional videos online, and we can also provide guidance.
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Yes, it’s entirely possible for goats to get lice, but thankfully they are easily dealt with using Pestene powder, which is widely available.
Goats can be susceptible to worms. They do develop resistance to drenches, so it’s wise to avoid using the same one regularly, and to only worm when necessary. You can get worm counts (fecal egg counts) done to see if your goats need worming. Your your vet can do this, or you can send away samples for testing.
General Information
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To own goats in Australia, you are required to have a Property Identification Code (PIC), which is a legal requirement for all properties with livestock. Applying for a PIC is a straightforward online process, and it must be completed before purchasing goats.
It’s also worth checking in with your local government authority to make sure you can own livestock on your property.
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Pygmy and Nigerian Dwarf goats are both a miniature variety of goat, making them a great choice for those with more limited space. A quarter-acre property is enough for a pair of pygmy goats. Of course, the larger your herd, the more space they will need.
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Goats need good fencing to keep them in and predators out. Small mesh (such as horse mesh) with strong wires, ideally 1.2m high, but depending on your animals 0.9m may be sufficient.
Since they often rub against fencing, it’s important to ensure that your fences are sturdy and regularly checked & maintained to avoid wear and tear.
Goats need adequate shelter to protect them from wind and rain, as they strongly dislike being wet. Simple structures, such as large dog kennels, repurposed cubbies, or shelters made of old pallets, can provide suitable protection, ensuring they stay dry and comfortable during bad weather.
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Goats are herd animals that need to be in the company of other goats. Without companions (preferably around the same size to minimise bullying), they will become lonely, stressed, and unhappy. Being part of a herd also helps them feel safer.
For this reason, we will only sell goats in a minimum of pairs (ideally, we’d actually recommend having at least 3) or to homes that already have other goats.
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Wethers are castrated male goats, and they make the most suitable pets (in pairs of course!). They don’t become stinky like bucks, and they don’t scream out every few weeks when in season like a doe.
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Pygmy goats and Nigerian Dwarf goats are both small breeds, but they have distinct differences.
Pygmy goats are stockier with a more compact, muscular build, and are primarily bred as companion animals.
Nigerian Dwarf goats, on the other hand, are miniature dairy goats, known for producing high-quality milk despite their small size. They have a more slender frame than Pygmies.
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The average lifespan of a miniature goat is 10 to 15 years or more.
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We are members of the National Pygmy Goat Association of Australia (NPGAA) and Dairy Goat Society of Australia (DGSA).
Being a member allows you to register and transfer your goats, get support and information, and meet other breeders. Each association has a database containing all animals registered with them, showing information on their pedigree and genetics.
Nationally Registered Goat Breeders
We are proud to be registered breeders with both the National Pygmy Goat Association of Australia (NPGAA) and the Dairy Goat Society of Australia (DGSA). The Makers Den has a commitment and dedication to breeding quality Pygmy and Nigerian Dwarf miniature goats, perfect for any family or farm.
